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This episode is sponsored by: Shaper Tools, makers of Shaper Origin

Sean

1)Thank you all great information from both the podcast.

Right now I have a woodriver spoke shave, wood river shoulder plane, i have buck brothers #4 four plane and block plane, both from home depot, totaling $50. I have learned to sharpen well and get whispy shaving and a mirror surface on most woods. Though the plane seems to loose it's setting quickly and the blade chips on any thing harder then pine.

I have some money and want to buy a new plane. I only have about $350 to spend. Which plane would you recommend? I think Bevel up veritas or wood river and buying a second 50 degree blade. Scott

2) Thanks for the informative podcast.

I have a question regarding dado blades. I have a 10 inch delta table saw (36-725T2), and I am wondering what blade to get. Most of the dado blades I see for sale are 8", and some 6". Being that my table saw motor is not overly powerful , would a 6" blade be better to reduce the weight? What are your recommendations on size and maybe some brands you have used and suggest? Thanks. Trevor

Guy

1) I have a question about drilling pilot holes for wood screws. There seem to be 2 types of pilot hole/contersink bits. One style has a straight bit and the other style has a tapered bit. I have read conflicting information about the different types.

Are the tapered bits only for tapered screws and the straight bits for newer straight shank woodscrews or are the tapered bits preferable for everything?
When drilling the pilot holes should I drill a larger hole through the top board to pull the boards closer?
If using the tapered bits how is the countersink adjust for longer or shorter screws as the hole depths are different?
Should I just forget about the combination drill/countersink bits and use a separate drill and coutersink.

Thanks for your advice. Bob

2) I recently started monetizing my woodworking skills as a side hustle, which has been great as it has allowed me to upgrade a lot of my tool arsenal. I just bought a Sawstop professional cabinet saw, and of course, the differences between it and a jobsite saw are night and day. I have managed to cut both of my hands on 2 separate occasions with my DeWalt table saw (without removing digits, fortunately), so if there ever was a person who needed to invest in a Sawstop, I am that man.

I think my next buy will be a Festool (most likely) track saw, or perhaps a helical blade planer. Currently my bread-and-butter work tends to be sliding barn doors. I don't claim to be an extremely highly skilled woodworker who does intricate joinery at this point; I simply realized that I could capitalize on my accrued skills and make smaller-scale projects for extra "shop money".

The one tool I have not invested in yet is a Jointer. I highly desire to have one but I have been able to get by for this long without it, so I am in no particular hurry to get one.

My question is this: How beneficial does having a jointer tend to be in your experience, and is it something you use all the time? Is it something you would consider a must have for any serious woodworker?

I apologize for this being long-winded. Thanks in advance. Nate

Huy

1)Good Evening Gentlemen....and I use that term loosely

I have been blessed to be a Dad for a little son who is now 3.5 years old.

I have had him out in the workshop trying out some of the tools....spokeshaves, hand planes, drill press, clamps and vises, and some other hand tools that I deem safe under direct supervision. It is so much fun to see the wheels turn as he experiments with them.

I have made a decision to expose and introduce him to these experiences early on in the hope of planting the seed for curiosity and establishing a foundation of fundamental skills and understanding of how things are created.

I do worry though as he becomes comfortable with different tools, he will eventually want to try and experiment on his own. I am always reinforcing that he is not allowed to do things without me, but at some point, I do worry that he might try and do things while I am gone.

At this time, I flip all of the breakers for the power tool circuits and I am comfortable with this solution now, however, as he gets older and might understand why I am opening and closing that grey panel, I am looking for some more control of when things run.

Are you guys aware of any solutions with new smart breakers ect that would allow more direct control over how and when circuits can have power? I have looked online at square D's website and I am not finding a simple solution for this in terms of a retro fit solution on a standard electric panel. It seems like a few smart breakers that are password protected would be a perfect solution.

Some of the tools have those yellow plastic inserts in the switch, but I was looking for something a little more elegant to control the power at the circuit level.

Benjamin and I often listen to the show after the lights go out for bed time, so if you can keep the jokes reasonably clean that will save me some explaining later for his mother. Love the show and keep up the great work. Brad

2) Thanks for your podcast, I enjoy it tremendously and it is obvious that the three of you are really good friends!

I recently saw a short Y.T. video from WWGOA/George Vondruska about a track saw guide rail set that can be adapted to almost any regular circular saw, and provides accurate straight line cutting of sheet goods and dimensional lumber on a standard track rail. (Please see the video on YT from WWGOA: "Benefits of a Track Saw | Woodworkers Guild of America ")

It would appear that you can buy these track saw rails and adapter plate, and if the instructions are followed correctly, bolt your regular circular saw to a base that indexes on their track accurately and with repeatability for making straight cuts. The purpose of this is to reduce the expense of buying a single purpose saw, when you already generally have one that can be used for this purpose.

The adapter plate is bolted to your regular circular saw base with 4 bolts. (Which are supplied by True Trac), using a guide to index for square positioning of the saw onto the adapter plate. The guide rail track is then trimmed perfectly using the saw, and performance at that point is identical to any other track saw.

There are several video clips on YT about this track, and it's available on Amazon as well as direct from the manufacturer.

It gets excellent reviews if you place any faith in them.

I believe all 3 if you esteemed gentlemen already have either the Festool or Makita track saws & guide rails, so you are extremely knowledgeable and experienced with this type of device.

Your thoughts, please?

Thanks again for your great service to the woodworking community.

John Malcolm

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